First of all, Happy New year! When I planned for this trip to go from December to January, I never once thought about New Year's Eve and how/if I would celebrate. But when I arrived in Cairo, I discovered that Kevin had made plans. Karen and Ana, the Chilean mother and daughter duo he met in my absence, had reservations for a Nile dinner cruise/New Year's party through our hotel concierge. We hopped onto their reservation and soon found ourselves sitting on a restaurant-style party boat on the largest river in the world. The clock struck 11 and the party began. We hadn't received any details from Mohammad the concierge, or the other Mohammad, our reliable hotel cab driver. But soon, elaborately-costumed performers took the stage and began showcasing their Arabic music and dances, while pulling the guests into their show. Of course, they pulled Ana, Karen, and me to the stage and we tried our best to follow their simple, but often uncoordinated routines.
It's funny to see how many Merry Christmas signs are up around Egypt. Though, everyone wants some of your money (often for doing absolutely nothing for you), and if that means recognizing the tourists' religious holidays so you get a little business, then so be it. When our tour guide for the pyramids first jumped into our car today, the first thing he said when he turned to look at us was, "Happy New Year, Merry Christmas." Later he asked me when Christmas was. When I told him it was a week ago, he seemed confused. So between several similar conversations and the restaurant decor being New Year's Hats and Christmas trees, I've come to the conclusion that they believe it's the same holiday.
I didn't come on this trip prepared to go anywhere nice. My nicest pair of shoes are black, strappy sketchers pseudo-athletic shoes that I couldn't pull off as nice if my reputation depended on it. The same went for Kevin with clothing, so we decided to do a little shopping. Our hotel is smack-dab in the middle of downtown. There are tons of people and the streets are lined with every shop imaginable. We only had to stroll down a couple of blocks to find exactly what we were looking for: a shirt and tie for Kevin, and a black, sparkly sweater dress and silver, beaded flats for me (for a grand total of $45 USD, I might add). Ana and Karen had tipped us off about the shops, and how cheap everything was because the Egyptian Pound is worth so much less than the dollar. Needless to say, we looked pretty sharp for the party.
Of course, so did the group of Eastern European woman and their "friends" who decided to completely ignore every rule about decency in an Islamic country, and arrived in dresses that looked more like barely-there swimwear. But they clearly didn't have the dance moves we did, which is probably why guys kept asking to take photos of us. Specifically, there were two waiters and an Asian guy in his early twenties who were just fascinated by me. Of course, it could have been because of my remarkable good looks...and damn, they're good (that one's for you, pop), but it was probably because they just wanted to marry me and get an American visa. Arab men offer marriage proposals like they're offering ice cream. Mohammad the concierge disagreed. Apparently giving away ice cream is much more difficult. By the end of the evening, after a night full of dancing and interesting seafood full of little legs and sad, accusing eyes, we were exhausted. The waiter approached and asked if Ana and Kevin were married. Ana, who only speaks Spanish, didn't understand so in my rustiest Spanish I translated and informed him that she wasn't married to Kevin, but she did have a husband in Chile. Still, he persisted. "What is your email?" "No tengo una email." "Ok, then what is your phone number? I'll call you!" Yea. Right. lol.
I am becoming well versed in the art of haggling. After we agreed to a camel and horse tour of the pyramids and sphinx this morning, our guide put us on our animals and began demanding payment. He started high: 680 EGP each for the "long" 1-hour ride that covers all three pyramids and the sphinx (and this is on top of the entry fees, which are already 90 EGP for getting into the park and inside the pyramid). We started our negotiations. Do you know what the best way to haggle with someone who only accepts cash is? Tell them you don't have as much cash as they want. We finally argued down to a reasonable 600 EGP for both of us for a two-hour trip (me on a camel, Kevin on a horse), which is the equivalent to about $50 USD each. At the end, he took us to his friends' shop where he showed us how they make papyrus and I once again worked my haggling magic to drop the price from 1500 EGP for an decent-sized art piece to 300. Tomorrow we hit the bazaar. Let the games begin.
The pyramids were awe-inspiring. Of course, all the lime casing was stripped down to make Cairo's buildings long ago, but just the size of the things is incredible to behold. The Great Pyramid of Giza doesn't open until 1, so we opted to go into the smaller pyramid because "they're all exactly the same" ...all cleared out with nothing but the burial rooms. And getting to those rooms is not exactly a walk in the park. The trek involves climbing down a narrow wooden latter/ramp while hunched over to avoid scraping your head on the top of the tunnel. I don't recommend that for anyone who is even slightly claustrophobic. I'm surprised the historical society in Egypt hasn't created an artificial set-up of what the burial chambers would have looked like when they were sealed (before all the pillaging and archaeological rape). But, it's something you have to do once.
Tomorrow, we will visit the Egyptian Museum and find out why Cairo is called the city of a thousand minarets.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Walk like an Egyptian...
AKA in the middle of the street. In front of speeding vehicles. With your baby in your arms. Yea. Apparently there are no jaywalking laws in Cairo, which I quickly learned after I was picked up from the airport. In fact, I'm not sure there are any driving laws at all. Our Egyptian driver told us about how he started driving at age 12 because his father holds a very high position in the police department and would send him off with a permission letter. Think about any twelve-year-old you know. Can you imagine them driving in a city? Exactly. We raced down the road, swerving in and out of lanes (which apparently are just used to measure the width of the street, and not to indicate actual driving parameters) and dodging pedestrians who would simply step out in front of a car, only to be honked at and sped past. It was nerve-wracking. But after 15 minutes of listening to the driver explain an Arabic song about how they don't like their women to work (sorry to disappoint, boys), we finally arrived at the Cairo Moon Hotel.
Now, this place is supposed to be a three star hotel. It had fabulous reviews on Trip Advisor, which I religiously reference for all things travel, this place, however, was sketch. The room is a nice size with small beds that look like they belong to a 7-year-old girl with their pink and purple (and in Kevin's case...Minney Mouse) sheets. The bathroom has a small corner shower with no curtain, and hot water that lasts about 4 1/2 minutes. But exit our room and you'll find the common room and patio with a tenth floor view of our busy downtown street. Mohammad, our concierge, is fantastic. Upon my arrival, he appeared at my table with two cups of hot tea and a plate full of baklava. Every day he lingers around the guests, casually asking where they're planning on going, and offering his expert advice on how to get there and what he can arrange. The place may be a dive, but the service and price are just about right.
Tomorrow we start the real touring. We'll hire a driver to take us to and around Giza so we can see the pyramids and the Sphinx, and I can get my camel ride. After half a day of that, we'll come back and start the shopping. For New Year's Eve we're joining two Chilean women from the hotel who are taking a Nile dinner cruise from 10 p.m. - 2 a.m. Of course, we'll need to wear something nicer than we packed, so we'll start by going to the main bazaar, Khan el-Khalili, and then to a street of shops that are supposed to be "ridiculously cheap" according to the women. Let the bargaining begin.
We actually tried heading there tonight. Mohammad pointed us in the direction of the bazaar, asked for the fourth time if we were SURE we didn't want a taxi, and gave us his card in case we got lost. We began walking. It was 11 and the shops on the road were all still open and ready for business. Between the European-style architecture and the trash piled up in the roads, this place looks like a cross between Italy and Mexico. We ran across streets, dodging cars and cat calls (yea, THIS is why I needed a man with me on this trip), and getting pseudo-lost in a city with a layout that resembles more of a labyrinth than a grid. Eventually we located a familiar landmark and made our way back. If nothing else, it was a nice taste of what Cairo nightlife is like on day 1.
I've been warned about the Arab men. Jeremy, my friend from flight 1, gave me fair warning about getting harassed. He said it's all harmless, but Arab men love American women because they see them as a possible ticket to the states. Sorry again, but I'm already taken ;). He said it's always harmless, as is any hassling that may come with shopping. Surprisingly, Cairo has one of the lowest violent crime rates in the world. Like any big city, they have their fair share of pick-pockets, but it's rare that someone will actually mug or assault you.
Tomorrow, the tourism begins.
Now, this place is supposed to be a three star hotel. It had fabulous reviews on Trip Advisor, which I religiously reference for all things travel, this place, however, was sketch. The room is a nice size with small beds that look like they belong to a 7-year-old girl with their pink and purple (and in Kevin's case...Minney Mouse) sheets. The bathroom has a small corner shower with no curtain, and hot water that lasts about 4 1/2 minutes. But exit our room and you'll find the common room and patio with a tenth floor view of our busy downtown street. Mohammad, our concierge, is fantastic. Upon my arrival, he appeared at my table with two cups of hot tea and a plate full of baklava. Every day he lingers around the guests, casually asking where they're planning on going, and offering his expert advice on how to get there and what he can arrange. The place may be a dive, but the service and price are just about right.
Tomorrow we start the real touring. We'll hire a driver to take us to and around Giza so we can see the pyramids and the Sphinx, and I can get my camel ride. After half a day of that, we'll come back and start the shopping. For New Year's Eve we're joining two Chilean women from the hotel who are taking a Nile dinner cruise from 10 p.m. - 2 a.m. Of course, we'll need to wear something nicer than we packed, so we'll start by going to the main bazaar, Khan el-Khalili, and then to a street of shops that are supposed to be "ridiculously cheap" according to the women. Let the bargaining begin.
We actually tried heading there tonight. Mohammad pointed us in the direction of the bazaar, asked for the fourth time if we were SURE we didn't want a taxi, and gave us his card in case we got lost. We began walking. It was 11 and the shops on the road were all still open and ready for business. Between the European-style architecture and the trash piled up in the roads, this place looks like a cross between Italy and Mexico. We ran across streets, dodging cars and cat calls (yea, THIS is why I needed a man with me on this trip), and getting pseudo-lost in a city with a layout that resembles more of a labyrinth than a grid. Eventually we located a familiar landmark and made our way back. If nothing else, it was a nice taste of what Cairo nightlife is like on day 1.
I've been warned about the Arab men. Jeremy, my friend from flight 1, gave me fair warning about getting harassed. He said it's all harmless, but Arab men love American women because they see them as a possible ticket to the states. Sorry again, but I'm already taken ;). He said it's always harmless, as is any hassling that may come with shopping. Surprisingly, Cairo has one of the lowest violent crime rates in the world. Like any big city, they have their fair share of pick-pockets, but it's rare that someone will actually mug or assault you.
Tomorrow, the tourism begins.
Goodbye, Germany. Hello, Cairo (I think)...
I'm leaving. Theoretically. I arrived at the Frankfurt airport this morning (it was snowing, btw :) ) three hours before my supposed flight was scheduled to depart and lined up behind twenty other passengers waiting to check-in on EgyptAir. When the counters finally opened I handed the agent my paper (written) ticket from Continental, along with my passport. She was clearly baffled by this as she turned it over several times, shook her head, and asked me when it was issued. A wave of heat and panic rushed over me. What if I didn't make it on this flight? This is the last flight out to Cairo today. WHY ARE THERE NO MORE FLIGHTS THAN THIS!? She told me the flight was already full and left her computer to discuss the situation with what I assume was a supervisor. He looked on her monitor, then at my ticket, then at me, and gave a nodd. The woman then turned to me and asked how many bags I had and if I wanted a window or aisle seat. SUCCESS! She took my bag (which apparently is small enough for American airliners, but way too big for Egyptian/European planes) and handed me my glorious boarding pass...complete with my name and seat number. She taped my paper ticket to the back and told me not to lose it "just in case." Of course I'm still a little nervous (especially when someone says something like "just in case"), but in 45 minutes I should finally be on a plane.
Cairo, here I come.
Cairo, here I come.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Dear Continental Airlines,
I'd like to thank you for making this trip unforgettable from the get-go. Between the frantic rescheduling of my flight (due to a 5 hour flight delay that would cause me to miss my connection in London), getting me on Kevin's flight via standby, and somehow forgetting to actually change my information in your system to reflect my NEW flight from Frankfurt, Germany to Cairo, you have subjected me to the most convoluted travel experience of my life. Fortunately, there are competent members of your staff working in Germany. So after Egypt Air, operated by Lufthansa, told me I couldn't get on the last flight to Cairo today, I went sulking to the tiny and barren Continental Airlines counter at the Frankfurt airport. There two lovely German women listened to my story, and chastised their American counterparts as they located my information. But, as I said, I already missed the last flight out to Cairo, so the women graciously forced me onto tomorrow's flight and put me up in a four star hotel near the airport, complete with food vouchers. For this, I thank you. If only all your staff members were equally as competent.
With love,
Ashley
PS- What is your issue with not bumping people up to first class when half the cabin is empty and the cattle car is jam packed? EXPLAIN THIS TO ME!
It has been a long and exhausting day. I've never had so many issues with flights before. In fact, I don't remember ever having ANY issues with flights. Thankfully, Kevin made it to Cairo and secured our hotel reservation, so he'll pick me up tomorrow evening (though it's unfortunate I had to miss an entire day of Egypt due to this little mix-up).
I actually almost didn't make it onto Kevin's flight. When they made the announcement that my flight would be delayed for 5 hours, I immediately went to inquire about other possible avenues to Cairo. Of course, the woman I spoke to was unsympathetic to my plight until I sent Kevin up with his smiles and charm and then *magically* I got on the standby list. What a relief that was...until I got to Germany.
You know, I always meet the most interesting peple when I travel. Whether it's the hotel concierge, a cafe waiter, or someone on a train, I always manage to find someone. This time it was Jeremy; my 39 year old seat-mate who works for the U.S. government in the Middle East. That's about all I got out of him about his job, but, having lived there for several years, he gave me a wealth of information about every place I was visiting. He also bought me a couple of Coronas, thus sealing our bond as friends forever :). But really, meeting people and hearing their stories is a major part of what makes traveling such a unique experience. I absorb everything they tell me.
Time to hit the sack. The hotel they put me in is just minutes from the airport by shuttle, and far away from the rest of the city, so I've done nothing in Frankfurt but sleep, use food vouchers, and avoid the extreme cold (which I'm obviously not prepared for). Fingers crossed that tomorrow will be smooth sailing, or flying, rather, and my vacation can actually begin.
With love,
Ashley
PS- What is your issue with not bumping people up to first class when half the cabin is empty and the cattle car is jam packed? EXPLAIN THIS TO ME!
It has been a long and exhausting day. I've never had so many issues with flights before. In fact, I don't remember ever having ANY issues with flights. Thankfully, Kevin made it to Cairo and secured our hotel reservation, so he'll pick me up tomorrow evening (though it's unfortunate I had to miss an entire day of Egypt due to this little mix-up).
I actually almost didn't make it onto Kevin's flight. When they made the announcement that my flight would be delayed for 5 hours, I immediately went to inquire about other possible avenues to Cairo. Of course, the woman I spoke to was unsympathetic to my plight until I sent Kevin up with his smiles and charm and then *magically* I got on the standby list. What a relief that was...until I got to Germany.
You know, I always meet the most interesting peple when I travel. Whether it's the hotel concierge, a cafe waiter, or someone on a train, I always manage to find someone. This time it was Jeremy; my 39 year old seat-mate who works for the U.S. government in the Middle East. That's about all I got out of him about his job, but, having lived there for several years, he gave me a wealth of information about every place I was visiting. He also bought me a couple of Coronas, thus sealing our bond as friends forever :). But really, meeting people and hearing their stories is a major part of what makes traveling such a unique experience. I absorb everything they tell me.
Time to hit the sack. The hotel they put me in is just minutes from the airport by shuttle, and far away from the rest of the city, so I've done nothing in Frankfurt but sleep, use food vouchers, and avoid the extreme cold (which I'm obviously not prepared for). Fingers crossed that tomorrow will be smooth sailing, or flying, rather, and my vacation can actually begin.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Ready, Set, Pack.
Well, it's time. After months of reading, planning, studying, and shopping, it's FINALLY time. Tomorrow evening I will board a plane for Cairo, Egypt and enter into a world of Arabic and Islamic culture. Needless to say, I'm stoked. I knew back in August that I wanted to take a trip over the holidays. I had already been to Europe several times, so I wanted to visit someplace completely different. Also, I had like 95,000 flight miles to use up, so I wanted to use them to go someplace FAR. Long story short, I recruited my "uncle" (actually my mom's cousin) Kevin, who is well-traveled and also has tons of vacation time, and started planning. Our itinerary includes Cairo, Cyprus, Israel (Tel Aviv, Eilat, Ein Gedi (kibbutz on the Dead Sea), Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and back to Tel Aviv, and Petra, Jordan). That's three continents, four countries, and, what, like 8 cities? There may be a few more in there that we haven't planned on.
For me, this trip will be unlike any of my others. First, for the obvious dangers of visiting an area of the world that is in constant turmoil. We have to take extra precautions and make sure we're up to speed on their current political and social issues, and that we abide by their customs. Second, I've always been fascinated by Egypt... the ancient race and their glorious architecture and history. Not to mention that my favorite Bible story was that of Moses. Which then brings me to my third reason: In many ways this trip will be a way to reconnect with my Christianity. Now, we aren't going on a religious pilgrimage or anything, but it'll be awesome to see so many of the places that were referenced in the Biblical texts. It makes the trip a little more personal :).
But for tonight, I'm concentrating on packing. I'm a Virgo. This basically means that lists and details run my life. So what do you think I've been doing for the last several weeks? Yea, making lists and panicking about what to bring. I always try to pack as light as possible, but the weather varies so much from city to city that it's been HARD. But, it's about 24 hours before my flight leaves, and what I've got now is what I'm taking. I refuse to stop by another store for anything other than Dramamine or lip balm. I have about 15 different lists telling me what to pack. I should be fine as long as I don't forget something like my (mom's) camera or the charger for my netbook or nook (which was a Christmas present from the Steakleys, by the way...and now that it's working, I'm a little obsessed). My nook is actually going to be my saving grace on this trip. On it I have travel guides for Cairo and all of Israel, and both include phrase books (too bad it can't just TALK for me), along with a Bible for reference and few works of lit for entertainment.
Anyway, all this to say, WELCOME TO MY TRAVEL BLOG! This will be my way of keeping everyone I know updated on my trip (and so mom and dad and bf know I'm safe :) ). I'm going to try and blog a little everyday (assuming I have wifi at the hotels), so bookmark my page and don't forget to check in every once in awhile to see what we've been up to! Prayers and positive thoughts for a safe trip are requested :). Love to all.
For me, this trip will be unlike any of my others. First, for the obvious dangers of visiting an area of the world that is in constant turmoil. We have to take extra precautions and make sure we're up to speed on their current political and social issues, and that we abide by their customs. Second, I've always been fascinated by Egypt... the ancient race and their glorious architecture and history. Not to mention that my favorite Bible story was that of Moses. Which then brings me to my third reason: In many ways this trip will be a way to reconnect with my Christianity. Now, we aren't going on a religious pilgrimage or anything, but it'll be awesome to see so many of the places that were referenced in the Biblical texts. It makes the trip a little more personal :).
But for tonight, I'm concentrating on packing. I'm a Virgo. This basically means that lists and details run my life. So what do you think I've been doing for the last several weeks? Yea, making lists and panicking about what to bring. I always try to pack as light as possible, but the weather varies so much from city to city that it's been HARD. But, it's about 24 hours before my flight leaves, and what I've got now is what I'm taking. I refuse to stop by another store for anything other than Dramamine or lip balm. I have about 15 different lists telling me what to pack. I should be fine as long as I don't forget something like my (mom's) camera or the charger for my netbook or nook (which was a Christmas present from the Steakleys, by the way...and now that it's working, I'm a little obsessed). My nook is actually going to be my saving grace on this trip. On it I have travel guides for Cairo and all of Israel, and both include phrase books (too bad it can't just TALK for me), along with a Bible for reference and few works of lit for entertainment.
Anyway, all this to say, WELCOME TO MY TRAVEL BLOG! This will be my way of keeping everyone I know updated on my trip (and so mom and dad and bf know I'm safe :) ). I'm going to try and blog a little everyday (assuming I have wifi at the hotels), so bookmark my page and don't forget to check in every once in awhile to see what we've been up to! Prayers and positive thoughts for a safe trip are requested :). Love to all.
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