Walk like an Egyptian...

AKA in the middle of the street. In front of speeding vehicles. With your baby in your arms. Yea. Apparently there are no jaywalking laws in Cairo, which I quickly learned after I was picked up from the airport. In fact, I'm not sure there are any driving laws at all. Our Egyptian driver told us about how he started driving at age 12 because his father holds a very high position in the police department and would send him off with a permission letter. Think about any twelve-year-old you know. Can you imagine them driving in a city? Exactly. We raced down the road, swerving in and out of lanes (which apparently are just used to measure the width of the street, and not to indicate actual driving parameters) and dodging pedestrians who would simply step out in front of a car, only to be honked at and sped past. It was nerve-wracking. But after 15 minutes of listening to the driver explain an Arabic song about how they don't like their women to work (sorry to disappoint, boys), we finally arrived at the Cairo Moon Hotel. 

Now, this place is supposed to be a three star hotel. It had fabulous reviews on Trip Advisor, which I religiously reference for all things travel, this place, however, was sketch. The room is a nice size with small beds that look like they belong to a 7-year-old girl with their pink and purple (and in Kevin's case...Minney Mouse) sheets. The bathroom has a small corner shower with no curtain, and hot water that lasts about 4 1/2 minutes. But exit our room and you'll find the common room and patio with a tenth floor view of our busy downtown street. Mohammad, our concierge, is fantastic. Upon my arrival, he appeared at my table with two cups of hot tea and a plate full of baklava. Every day he lingers around the guests, casually asking where they're planning on going, and offering his expert advice on how to get there and what he can arrange. The place may be a dive, but the service and price are just about right. 

Tomorrow we start the real touring. We'll hire a driver to take us to and around Giza so we can see the pyramids and the Sphinx, and I can get my camel ride. After half a day of that, we'll come back and start the shopping. For New Year's Eve we're joining two Chilean women from the hotel who are taking a Nile dinner cruise from 10 p.m. - 2 a.m. Of course, we'll need to wear something nicer than we packed, so we'll start by going to the main bazaar, Khan el-Khalili, and then to a street of shops that are supposed to be "ridiculously cheap" according to the women. Let the bargaining begin. 

We actually tried heading there tonight. Mohammad pointed us in the direction of the bazaar, asked for the fourth time if we were SURE we didn't want a taxi, and gave us his card in case we got lost. We began walking. It was 11 and the shops on the road were all still open and ready for business. Between the European-style architecture and the trash piled up in the roads, this place looks like a cross between Italy and Mexico. We ran across streets, dodging cars and cat calls (yea, THIS is why I needed a man with me on this trip), and getting pseudo-lost in a city with a layout that resembles more of a labyrinth than a grid. Eventually we located a familiar landmark and made our way back. If nothing else, it was a nice taste of what Cairo nightlife is like on day 1. 


I've been warned about the Arab men. Jeremy, my friend from flight 1, gave me fair warning about getting harassed. He said it's all harmless, but Arab men love American women because they see them as a possible ticket to the states. Sorry again, but I'm already taken ;). He said it's always harmless, as is any hassling that may come with shopping. Surprisingly, Cairo has one of the lowest violent crime rates in the world. Like any big city, they have their fair share of pick-pockets, but it's rare that someone will actually mug or assault you. 


Tomorrow, the tourism begins.